Written in a pub last night:
(I walked past this place on the way back to the hotel. Apparently it has an impressive selection of beers - especially local - so I've ordered a Landsort on the advice of the waitress.)
My hotel is owned by a one of the ABBA members and used to be a movie theatre. It now has shows and concerts in theatre (sadly, the next show doesn't start till February) and has a cafe, bar and a restaurant. I popped down to the restaurant for a quick bite to eat on my first night. You know those moments when you sit down at a restaurant and then look at the very pricey menu? This was one of those. So I threw caution to the wind and ordered a $15 pear cider and a $47 venison dish (living on the edge....) There was some to-die-for nutty brown bread to start, and then my venison came out - complete with explanation of everything on the dish: thinly sliced potato cake topped with a strong, parmesan-like cheese from the north of Sweden, some vegetables including mushrooms, a cabbage like thing that I forget the name of and possibly carrots? The venison was medium rare (I was told that was how it was served, not asked how I'd like it. Fortunately, I like it medium rare). It was very nice, if a tad chewy.
The hotel has run with the movie theme. On my second night, I had a light dinner in the cafe and the walls are full of pictures of what I think are famous Swedish people. One of them looks like a young ummm you know, that Swedish guy that is in all the movies? The one from The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. The hotel room has a nice big television and a selection of DVDs that you can borrow for free. A very good thing too. I felt like shit with a head cold (similar to man flu, but worse) so I saw the pharmacy, the supermarket and two movies yesterday.
I'm still feeling quite sick, so I had a slow start today and didn't head out until about midday. My feet are my primary means of transport again, but it's more a a slow amble between stops rather than pounding the pavement like Amsterdam.
(The beer is quite nice - not much of a 'beer' aftertaste.)
I was headed for Gamla Stan (the old town) but ended up walking around the outside of the island as I had the National Museum in my sights. Which is closed for renovations. The route to the temporary exhibit took me past a bird feeding pontoon - a first for me - surrounded by ducks, swans and some black bird with a white forehead. I then got distracted by the parliament buildings and wandering the streets of Gamla Stan - very touristy, but quite pretty.
(I like this pub, it has little hooks under the tables for your coat. Where I'm sitting sandwiched between two other groups of people while I wait for a table in the restaurant to be free.)
One of my 'rest stops' along the way was a German church which had that quiet calmness that churches often do. [I've just googled and the church is dedicated to St Gertrude, a patron saint of travellers.] Then I stumbled across the Nobel museum. I'd seen it on the map, but didn't click as to what it was about - Nobel Prize winners. Duh. It looks good from the outside, but is actually only one floor of the building. I stopped for hot chocolate in the cafe where the chairs are all signed by Nobel Prize winners. I spent several hours in the museum including watching short clips about various winners and a guided tour and it was pitch dark when I left (at 4.15pm!!!!!)
(I've changed seats for better people watching and have just noticed a very large collection of whisky. Tempting.)
I'd heard that the Fotografiska museum had great views of the city so I headed there on my way back to the hotel. The gallery itself had some interesting exhibits:
- a photo documentary of the 'Arab spring'. It was all in Swedish but I got the gist of it and a number of the photos were also on the walls.
- a series of nudes by Paolo Roversi. The subjects were clearly models, but they hadn't been photo-shopped like they are in magazines so you could see their occasional flaws. They were stunning.
- photos by Edward Erwitt who likes dogs and children so there are lots of photos of those. Along with some iconic photos such as Jackie O crying at JFK's funeral, a series of photos at nudist weddings, and some great photos in Paris.
Then I ended up here. At Akkurat where my beer is empty and my table is free so I'm off to eat some mussels and chips.
Another interesting day, despite your cold! Hope you're feeling a lot better now.
ReplyDeleteAwful to be sick on holiday but you seem to be getting out and about anyway. It should be too cold for germs!
ReplyDeleteMussels and Frites ..... oh how fabulous! We had that is Brugge by the river :-)
ReplyDeleteNice Post
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